Please note

• Like any fire place, the Earthfire firepot is a potential fire hazard if not installed correctly, compliant with your local by-laws and building codes. (Part V of the National Building Regulations [SABS 0400] in South Africa).

• The chimney flue should pass no closer than 200mm to any combustible material without adequate insulation.

• The firepot itself should likewise be no closer than 300mm on either side to combustible materials and 500mm in front.

• Earthfire herewith specifically excludes responsibility for damages arising from whatsoever cause concerning the installation and use of Earthfire fireplaces.

• Take care of the lid during installation - it is most vulnerable prior to installation. It could get chipped if the edge is bumped carelessly against the pot.

• Take great care in insulating the ceiling and roof timbers from the flue, flue temperatures will exceed that of metal type fireplaces. See Insulation.

The firepot should ideally be free-standing, although it may be positioned inside an existing conventional fireplace if that is high and wide enough to accommodate at least one length of 0.5m flue. The existing masonry chimney should be blocked off with a heat resistant board to prevent heat loss and ensure adequate heating of the room, as well as proper draw.

If the firepot is free-standing, a base of durable material is essential. Tile should extend at least 600mm in front of the fire and 200mm on either side. A wrought iron stand is available to elevate the firepot, or it can be placed directly on a hearth or plinth - it looks best at about 150 - 300mm above floor level. This plinth could be made of bricks, cement or wood covered with tiles. The firepot should be positioned at least 1.0m from the closest furniture. As long as the base is fire resistant, neither the plinth nor the wrought iron stand is required for the safe operation of the firepot. However, we feel the firepot looks best when on a stand and 150 - 300mm high plinth.

Make sure the site selected for the fireplace allows for the installation of the chimney. A series of bends can be used to get around roof support structures.

Using a plumbline, mark the spot for the hole in the ceiling. Cut back the ceiling material at least 50mm from the pipe.

Using a plumbline, mark the spot for the hole to the outside.

Push the metal pipes together firmly on the ground. Make sure the pipes are joined the right way - narrow end at the bottom. (See drawing). The Special A pipe is designed to fit into the lid using the Flue Ring - see diagrams below.

Push the wider end of the endcap pipe through the hole in the ceiling. Insulate where it enters the ceiling and anywhere close to combustible material. Pull the inner pipe about 50mm down into the room - this will ensure that there is no expansion strain.

Rivet the pipes together - don’t rivet the enamelled pipe. When using more than one double- insulated pipe, rivet both the inside and the outside pipe

Insert the Special A pipe into the lid (detailed instructions below).

Hold up the lid after the pipe has been inserted and slide the firepot in underneath it.

If the endcap flue alone is not long enough, insert another double-insulated flue.

Fit the cowl on the end of the chimney and rivet in place.

Seal the chimney exit point with aluminium, lead or silicone flashing. (See section on roof sealing)

Ensure and equal overhang of the lid all round (slightly greater in front) and also position the pot to give a straight chimney line.

Apply fire cement to the inside of the pot/lid join - allow 12 hours to dry - and fill the bottom of the pot with building or sea sand to just below the mouth (detailed instructions below).  Dry sand only. 

Figure 2: Make sure the Collar fits snugly beneath the raised ridge in the Special A. Wind the fiberglass rope around the pipe below the ring.

Figure 3: Lower the pipe into the Lid. Push the pipe down firmly to push the rope into the lid. Use a blunt knife to push all visible bits of the rope under the ring. WARNING: Do not apply any Fire Cement between the lid and pipe, if the pipe is not free to expand it can crack  the lid.

4. Take a bit of time to position the lid squarely on the pot with an equal overhang all around the pot. Reach inside through the mouth and push fire cement into the join between lid and pot. Only apply fire cement after the lid is in position – DO NOT USE IT TO MAKE A GASKET, DO NOT APPLY ANY FIRE CEMENT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE POT.

Never force the pipe into the lid hole - it should slide in freely. Use a small grinder to take off any high spots in the lid hole. Alternatively, bring your lid to the factory or your dealer.

Apply fire cement to the inside of the pot/lid join. Wait 12 hours for the fire cement to dry.

Do not move the lid during the 12 hour drying period.

Fill the bottom of the pot with building or sea sand to just below the mouth. See diagram.  IMPORTANT: Dry sand only.  The purpose of the sand is to raise the level of the fire to ensure a perfect draw and also to insulate the bottom of the pot.

It is recommended that you use an insulated endcap flue protruding through the ceiling into the room. If that is not possible the non-insulated pipe can join the endcap above the ceiling.

THIS IS A CRITICAL AREA FOR INSULATION: The pipe at this point is still very hot and the ceiling which is in close proximity must be insulated from the heat.

Wrap ceramic fibre blanket (provided) around the flue in the ceiling hole. Even when using an insulated endcap flue, the ceiling must be cut back at least 50mm from the pipe. The unsightly hole and insulation material is then covered by a stainless steel ceiling plate. Thoroughly insulate the flue where ever it is closer than 300mm to combustible material. Also insulate the doube- walled insulated pipe where ever it passes closer than 200mm to combustible material. Extra insulation material will be provided at a small cost.

ADEQUATE INSULATION IS CRITICAL

The flue/roof joint can be sealed against the elements with aluminium, lead or silicone flashing.

WARNING: Do not use silicone flashing with a non-insulated pipe. Bitumen or waterbased flashing material is also not suitable, even with an insulated pipe - the movement allowed with these materials is not enough. (see below)

The reason for the flexible flashing concept is that allowance must be made for the expansion of the metal flue. The flashing must allow the flue to slide up when hot and back again when cool. If adhered to, the system described ensures that the flue/roof interface will not leak due to expansion strain.

WARNING: A rain proof cowl is essential - water down the chimney voids the warranty.

The chimney must extend 1m above the level of the roof penetration and a minimum of 0.5m higher than any roof surface within 3m horizontally to achieve a stable draft. Due to prevailing winds, local terrain, adjacent tall trees or structures, additional chimney height or an extractor may be required to insure optimum performance.